Need help changing spark plugs

[Signal 12]

tomorrow if anyone is down. I've never changed them out nor gapped them before and need a tutorial. Peace.

Mike

[CrazyBosnian]

I'd come, but i'm too far...:lol:

[jlaw]

Mike, it's really easy. I can't help you in person because I'm in Miami, but hopefully I can explain it well enough. MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS COLD before you touch the plugs, otherwise you run the risk of stripping the threads in the heads.

Gapping is easy, pick up a gap tool at autozone or discount for a buck. Slide the tool into the space between the strap and the electrode, when it stops sliding, that's the current gap. The way I found easiest to gap my plugs was to tighten them all to smaller than the gap necessary, then use the gap tool to open them up to the precise gap I wanted. You can tap the strap of the plug firmly on a hard surface to close it up, just don't overdo it or you'll close it off too much or maybe even damage the insulator.

You'll need a 7mm socket for the bolts that hold down the COP boots (9/16 might work too, I forget what size they are,) a spark plug socket with extension (at LEAST 6", longer the better,) some anti-seize lubricant, and a can or two of compressed air, the kind they sell at computer places for air dusting.

I did each cylinder one at a time to avoid misplacing bolts or swapping COP boots. Unplug the harness from the COP boot, remove the small gold bolt holding the COP boot down, and gently pull it up and off the plug. It might take a tiny bit of effort but should pop off pretty easily. Next, use the compressed air to thoroughly spray out all the crap that accumulates down in the plug hole, it can really build up. Once it's clean, remove the old plug, put a little bit of anti-seize on the threads of the new one, and use the extension and socket to FINGER-TIGHTEN the plug. I took the extension and socket off the ratchet to do this. Once it's finger tight, put the ratchet back on and give it another 1/8 of a turn, maybe a little bit more.

Replace the COP boot, put the bolt back in, reconnect the harness, do the next cylinder. You might also want to use some dielectric grease on the top of the plug, but it's not absolutely necessary. Easy as pie. You can give me a ring if you have any more questions, but please don't tell me you are a Hot104.9 DJ and that I won some prize.

[Gt]

Originally posted by evolve
Mike, it's really easy. I can't help you in person because I'm in Miami, but hopefully I can explain it well enough. MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS COLD before you touch the plugs, otherwise you run the risk of stripping the threads in the heads.



Tho, this is the best idea. To have the engine cold. Its hard to do when working at someone elses house. It can be done warm (I changed mine at the track, not 10 mins after a pass). But I can not stress enough BE CAREFUL. Do not force them at all.

[pendrgn]

only tony would change them at the track, between runs... lol

[Signal 12]

Good info Jon, thanks. I may wait until you get back so I don't fuck this up.


Originally posted by evolve
but please don't tell me you are a Hot104.9 DJ and that I won some prize.

I'm retired 8)

Mike

[Gt]

Originally posted by SN95Mike
Good info Jon, thanks. I may wait until you get back so I don't fuck this up.
Mike

No need to wait. Its easy! Anyone can do it


Tony

[JD]

Originally posted by pendrgn
only tony would change them at the track, between runs... lol

He's not the only one.8)

[pendrgn]

so are you doing the plugs now or not? post a time and place if you are man...

[Signal 12]

I gotta get some duster first, then it's on. Probably sometime this weekend.

Mike

[pendrgn]

cool... damn your car sits low in the avatar pic you have...lol...

[Bryan02TA]

it's easy bro, i did mine when i first got the car, gotta like the modular motor setup!